Portuguese Comfort Food – Yummy!
Wet or fine, the air of Portugal has a natural happiness in it, and the people of the country should be as happy and prosperous as any people in the world.
HG Wells
Well, if the Gods of COVID prevention smile on me over the next few weeks, I might just get to the Algarve for two weeks of sun, sea, food and wine, keep your fingers crossed for me!! Think cuisine of Portugal and immediately Nando’s springs to mind, I mean, what else is Portugal famous for, isn’t it a bit of a culinary desert? Absolutely not – far from it in fact! Having visited for many years I’m always surprised by the diversity of the local cuisine, most of it humble, rustic food but, bursting with flavours and textures.
Take the soup, Caldo Verde as an example – Potatoes, Kale or Spring Cabbage, Onions, Olive Oil, Garlic and Portuguese chouriço sausage that’s it but, throw it all together in the right proportions and wow, one of the most delicious soups you’ll ever taste.
Of course, Piri Piri Chicken is a favourite with locals and visitors a like but if you’re ever lucky to go, flex your culinary muscles and try something like Polvo a la Lagareiro, a delicious Traditional Octopus Dish or for lunch try a Francesinha Sandwich – gorgeous or, my absolute favourite, something I have as soon as I see it on the menu, bacalhau à Brás, a traditional dish of salt cod, scrambled eggs, fried potato matchsticks and marinated olives, it’s the ultimate comfort food. Try it, and you’ll never look back!
The Portuguese estimate there are well over 350 recipes for bacalhau so, you’re rarely going to find the same dish twice, this is Jamie Oliver’s version and I LOVE it!
Ideal for a dinner party, this recipe serves six
Ingredients
500 g salt cod, from sustainable sources
1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley, (30g)
2 shallots
1 lemon
3 onions
olive oil
20 mixed-colour olives, (Jamie has them stone in, having almost fractured a tooth once, I go stones out!)
1 pinch of dried chilli flakes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
extra virgin olive oil
500g Maris Piper or any other floury potatoes
1.2 litres vegetable oil, for frying
6 large free-range eggs
Method
Place the salt cod in a large bowl and cover completely with cold water. Leave to soak for at least 12 hours, draining and covering with fresh water every few hours.
When you’re ready to cook, finely slice the parsley stalks (reserving the leaves). Peel the shallots and finely slice into rounds. Using a speed-peeler, peel away strips of lemon zest.
Place a large pan on a high heat, half fill with water and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer. Drain and add the salt cod, then the parsley stalks, shallots and lemon peel. Poach for around 20 minutes, or until the cod starts to soften and flake apart.
Meanwhile, peel and finely slice the onions, then place in a large, wide pan on a medium heat with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season with black pepper and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden and starting to caramelize, stirring regularly.
Destone the olives and tear the flesh into a bowl. Roughly chop the parsley leaves, and add half to the bowl with the chilli flakes, vinegar and 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil. Mix well and set aside.
Use a slotted spoon to remove the salt cod to a plate. Pick out any bones, then break the flesh into the onion pan, also adding a good splash of poaching liquid. Cook for a further 10 minutes on a low heat, or until the fish is soft and flaking apart, stirring occasionally. Turn the heat off.
Meanwhile, peel the potatoes, then finely slice into matchsticks using a mandolin (use the guard!) or a sharp knife. Just under half fill a sturdy pan with the vegetable oil – the oil should be 8cm deep, but never fill your pan more than half full – and place on a medium-high heat.
Use a thermometer to tell when it’s ready (170°C), or add a piece of potato and wait until it turns golden – that’s the sign that it’s ready to go.
Working in batches, use a slotted spoon to carefully lower the potato matchsticks into the hot oil to cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until very lightly golden, but not cooked through. Transfer to a double layer of kitchen paper to drain and repeat.
Return the cod mixture to a medium heat, then stir in most of the remaining chopped parsley. Beat the eggs, then gently stir them into the pan. Fold in three-quarters of the potato matchsticks and take the pan off the heat – the eggs will continue to cook in the pan, so make sure you don’t overcook them at this stage.
Return the remaining potato matchsticks to the hot oil to fry for a further 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden and cooked through. Transfer to a double layer of kitchen paper to drain, and season with sea salt.
Transfer the bacalhau to a serving dish and top with the crispy potato fries. Using a slotted spoon, spoon over the marinated olives, then sprinkle the remaining chopped parsley on top. Great served with a green salad and a cold glass of Vinho Verde – heaven!!
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