Best, Affordable Little Restaurants in London

Food, in the end, in our own tradition, is something holy. It's not about nutrients and calories. It's about sharing. It's about honesty. It's about identity.

Louise Fresco

Whilst we had a bit of a cold snap here over the last few days, there’s still a sense that spring is in the air, the daffodils are blooming, the Magnolia tress are in full blossom, the days are getting longer and the birds are singing and I feel happy and moreover, a sensation that has been lacking of late, I feel optimistic!

The other thing I’ve noticed is places like Soho, Oxford Street and Bond Street are getting busier, tourists are returning and the town is once more welcoming people from overseas – I love it!

I’ve spoken about this before however, one of the things I adore about London is the fact it’s become a real melting pot of cultures, which has in turn given rise to some of the most fabulous, affordable restaurants, in case you’re thinking of visiting, here’s a few of my favourites;

Hoppers, Soho

There’s nothing like Hoppers in London. Of course, there’s good Sri Lankan food in certain pockets of the capital however, very few restaurants are exclusively Sri Lankan (most are South Indian and certainly don’t do hoppers, the egg-topped pancakes after which this Soho restaurant is named); the few exceptions are okay, rather than amazing. So, the fact that Hoppers is outrageously good is even more impressive. The small room, a sexy Soho take on all things Sri Lankan, is always full and always buzzing (and yes, you’ll almost certainly have to queue), but it’s more than worth the wait. If small plates, full flavours and unapologetic spicing are your bag, Hoppers will get your pulse – and your tastebuds – racing. Try the bone marrow varuval (a sort of dry, bone marrow curry for spreading over a buttery roti), plain hoppers and any of the curries.

Padella, Borough

Pasta is a funny old thing! On the face of it, so simple, boring, even. But this chic little Borough Market pasta bar – from the people behind Islington’s trendy Trullo – will change the way you feel about it for ever. There’s a daily-changing menu of plates, small enough to allow you to try a few (around two each, if you pass on starters and puddings), but large enough to leave you feeling genuinely satisfied. It’s all made and cooked to order right in front of you – everyone gets to perch up at the L-shaped counter, for maximum viewing pleasure – while the setting, all glass, marble and steel, is effortlessly chic. Don’t bother with starters or puddings (nice, but not why you’re here!) and definitely don’t miss the pappardelle with eight-hour beef shin ragu.

The Counter at Sabor, Regent’s Street

After years as executive chef at Barrafina, Spanish Queen bee Nieves Barragan Mohacho has opened her first solo establishment – a highly distinctive set-up spread over two floors (this small-plate tapas counter downstairs, bookable tables for communal wood-fired feasting upstairs). Some of Barrafina’s favourite ingredients are still here, but the style is more rustic, from an incredible salad of black tomato, chorizo and confit artichoke to a two-part dish involving stuffed chipiron (baby squid) in a puddle of black ink alongside a piece of breaded hake with aioli. Also pray that they’re serving their drool-inducing tartaleta filled with fragrant poached rhubarb and booze-laced mascarpone. The food’s all-round flawless and eating here is great fun. Everything here wows, but the just-runny salt-cod tortilla is sheer eggy heaven!

Smoking Goat, Shoreditch

Having moved from its original Soho location to new premises in Shoreditch, this rocking Thai barbecue joint now looks and feel like a real restaurant – albeit one with loads of smoke, noise and music. It’s all about drinking food here, chilli-spiked in-your-face flavours that simply cry out for a few beers: I suggest the signature fish-sauce chicken wings, the crunchy deep-fried shell-on prawns (eat them whole) and anything involving unctuous bulked-out noodles, Thai barbecue, a bowl of lardo fried rice and a few beers to keep the heat in check! If you have friends that are not a fan of spicy food, hmmmmm, don’t bring them.

Scully, St. James’

Born in Malaysia and raised in Sydney, with Chinese/Indian blood on his mum’s side and Irish/Balinese on his dad’s: no wonder this debut from fabulous chef Ramael Scully delivers an eclectic hotchpotch of flavours. How about a rebooted heirloom tomato salad involving green strawberries, grated coconut and a poured-at-the-table shrub (cider vinegar, soy and sweet tommie juices), or a downright velvety dish of marinated goat – slow-poached sous-vide for a whopping 36 hours, then presented atop a splodge of green-chilli-flecked yoghurt, slivers of pickled red onion and urd lentils. This is sharply focused, bold and surprising stuff served in a dining room with bags of personality. Honestly, everything – from the heirloom tomato salad to the goat’s cream cheesecake with strawberries is gorgeous!

Temper, Soho

Proprietor, Scottish chef and barbecue fan Neil Rankin (ex-Smokehouse, ex-Bad Egg) has created something super-thrilling at this huge fusion smokehouse in a Soho basement. Imagine deliciously charred meat carved from whole prime carcasses, served over homemade rotis or tacos, plus plenty of your favourite Asian or Latin spices. All set to backdrop of party tunes, with seats in diner-style booths or up at the counter, where you can watch the action. The menu changes all the time but if they’re on don’t miss the smoky, sweet and fiery tacos with soy-cured beef! Not the place to bring your vegie besties!

Lahpet, Shoreditch

Originally located in a pokey space on Maltby Street Market, Lahpet has relocated to an airy site on Shoreditch’s eastern fringes and has turned itself into an stunningly stylish Burmese star – all handsome wood, muted grey paintwork and patterned upholstery. Burmese cuisine is a cross-breed of Thai and Indian, but the flavours are still very much their own – if you don’t believe me, try one of their zingy signature salads or the chunky, succulent hake fillet on a moreish rosti with a fiery masala sauce. The vibe is buzzy, service is clued-up, portions are enormous and its terrific value – so call five friends, request one of the booths, and order as much as you possibly can and definitely don’t miss the coconut noodles with chicken and the fragrant fish cake salad (with caramelised onion, crisp cabbage and crunchy split peas), yummy!

Ducksoup, Soho

One of the original Soho small-and-sharing plates spots, Ducksoup makes up for its size (or lack of) with clued-up staff, bags of atmosphere and, oh yes, terrific food. Ingredients are exciting and eclectic, but pulled together in a broadly modern European way that makes them feel accessible. From cold plates of fennel salami, courgette achar or jersey rock oysters, to warm plates: roast sand carrots with coco beans, chervil and goat’s curd, say, or mussels with mogrhabieh, coriander and chilli, it’s anything but boring, especially when teamed with a glass or three from the daily-changing natural wine list! Another place where the menu is constantly changing, my top tip for this place, go with whatever the waitress suggests, I’ve never been steered in the wrong direction here!

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