48 Hours in Dublin

I go off into Dublin and two days later I'm spotted walking by the Liffey with a whole bunch of new friends.

Ronnie Wood

I’ve not done a travel post for a while and as going to Dublin in a few weeks, a city I’ve visited many times I thought I’d give you a whistle stop tour that’s easily achievable in 48 hours!

As far as capital cities are concerned, Dublin isn’t the biggest… by a long way! Subsequently, it’s ideal for a cheeky weekend away, that said, 48 hours isn’t nearly enough to do some of the city’s little nuggets justice. Dublin has it all; a rich cultural heritage, a fantastic nightlife scene and great food to match. For quaint castles, cosy bars, iconic theatre and, yes, plenty of Guinness, here is how to spend the perfect weekend in Dublin.

I would suggest you arrive Friday afternoon, the airport is to the north of the city and is a quick bus ride into town. Look for the signs in arrivals for the Dublin Express, there’s a couple of different routes so, make sure you get the one that goes closest to your hotel.

In the evening, head over to St Stephen’s Green, over recent years a plethora of very good restaurants have sprung up that wouldn’t be out of place in the Michelin Guide! My fav by far is Shanahan's On The Green. Situated in a 250-year-old Georgian building it has been painstakingly restored to its original architectural splendour. This authentic American Style Steakhouse and seafood restaurant is a place to dine quietly in beautiful classically proportioned rooms featuring original 18th Century plaster work and rare antiques from the Georgian period.

If you’re looking for some of Irelands rich history, personally I’d start at Dublin Castle. Once home to the Vikings, Dublin Castle dates back to the 13th century. Although not one of the most impressive castles in Ireland, Dublin Castle's architecture is quite impressive and it makes for a good introduction to the history of Ireland. The castle has served as a military fortress, prison, treasury and a political centre for over 700 years. Today, it's an exhibition of the stately lifestyle as well as a centre for important events such as Presidential Inaugurations.

You have the option of a self-guided tour for €7 or a guided tour for €10 which lasts for about an hour. I would recommend you spend the extra €3 if you're interested in the history of the castle and how it's use evolved over a period of time.

About 10 minutes’ walk from Dublin castle is Trinity College. The history of Trinity College may or may not interest you, but the architecture and landscaping certainly will. Most of the buildings date back to the 18th and 19th centuries and the college was the learning ground of various literary legends such as Samuel Beckett, Oscar Wilde and Jonathan Swift. The entry to the college is free, however, there is a charge of €11 to enter the greatest treasure of the college – the Old Library housing the “Book of Kells”.

The “Book of Kells” is an illuminated manuscript of the four Gospels of the New Testament, created in 800AD by monks. The history of the book is highlighted in various columns inside the Old Library, but the most impressive part of this visit is the Long Room, the main chamber of the library which houses more than 200,000 old and rare pieces of literature.

You’re probably ready for a spot of lunch and in this part of Dublin, you’re a little spoiled for choice, there are loads of little café’s serving light meals and sandwiches.

You’ve now got two options, both booze related! About a minute west of the college is the Irish Whiskey Museum, an interesting little museum taking you back through time to find the origins of uisce beatha, the water of life, it’s not the biggest museum and the tour doesn’t take you very long, giving to time to pop around the corner to see the famous bronze statue of Molly Malone, affectionately known by the locals as the Tart with the Cart! Personally, I’d jump in an Uber and head back towards the castle up to St Jame’s Gate, the home of the internationally recognised stout, Guinness!

The Guinness Storehouse, incidentally, Ireland’s number-one tourist attraction, is not just a brewery, but also an impressive interactive museum. Learn about the Guinness family and how the story of Ireland’s famous beer is interwoven with the history of the city itself. Be sure to head to the rooftop bar for a panoramic view from one of the highest vantage points in the city, and don’t forget to try your hand at pouring your own perfect pint of the “black stuff”.

Head back towards the College again and you’ll come across Grafton Street, the most popular shopping street in Ireland since Victorian times. One of the liveliest spots in Dublin during the day, Grafton Street is lined with a variety of retail stores, cafes, souvenir shops, restaurants and hotels. This cobbled-stone street was also mentioned in Ed Sheeran’s song “Galway Girl” in 2017, sparking a lot of interest and speculation about the “bar” that he refers to. Be prepared to stroll amongst dense crowds, redbrick buildings, narrow by-lanes, upmarket stores and live artists performing on this pedestrianized street.

Back to the hotel for a quick shower then out once more to sample Dublin’s vibrant nightlife! Of course, lots of tourists head towards Temple Bar, a bustling knot of bars and restaurants, go take a look, it’s worth it but personally I wouldn’t eat or drink there, it’s WAY overpriced. Instead I’d head back East to a fabulous little restaurant called Note.

At first glance, Note may seem like yet another bog-standard wine bar and small plate spot. But look past its effortlessly cool facade and you'll discover a dining spot that successfully marries style and substance. Situated on Fenian Street, it boasts a vibrant, seasonal food menu as well as an expertly curated selection of wines. Visitors can enjoy a casual evening over snacks and small plates or splurge on the whole hog (starter, main and dessert). Either way, this is seriously elevated cooking that wouldn’t be out of place in London, Amsterdam or Paris.

Day Two, hopefully you’ve been able to kickstart your day with a full Irish and you’ll be ready for more sightseeing! It may sound a little odd but, I’d now head out of the city to the idyllic village of Howth. The highlights here are the Howth Castle and Lighthouse but if you're a walking enthusiast, there are some pretty cool picturesque trails here.

Howth Castle is a good place to start. Although more than 800 years old, the castle is still inhibited by a historical family. You can, however, roam the castle's vicinity, where you will find a cafe, a restaurant and massive gardens (and a golf course) offering breathtaking views of the castle and the coast in the backdrop. You can explore the interior of the castle as well but only through a private guided tour, available on Sundays during the summer months. Certain areas such as the Great Hall and dining room are open to the visitors on these guided tours and portraits, furnishings as well as artifacts on display are a good way to learn about the history of the castle.

The Howth Cliff Walk Loop is a very scenic and easy 6-km hiking loop starts from Howth Village's train station and is well marked. With clear views of the rugged coastline and passing through some pubs and restaurants, the leisurely walk can take you up to 2 hours, depending on your speed and number of stops. The walk takes in Howth Lighthouse, an old, traditional lighthouse that has welcomed Irish Rovers back for years!

Not too far from the lighthouse is St Mary's Abbey, which although is shut itself, does allow you to walk in the abbey's ground, which offers amazing views of the cliffs and the beautiful the coastline. The ruined church is still used for burials and is pretty impressive to look at.

Back to the city for the rest of the afternoon! A fairly new addition to the city’s cultural revolution is the quirky Little Museum of Dublin. Situated on Lower Pembroke Street, it’s housed in a landmark 18th-century Georgian townhouse. Unlike other museums, it consists of just a few rooms filled with artefacts that provide insight into the history of Dublin and the people who helped shape it. Guides are included in the entry fee.

As I mentioned, 48 hours really doesn’t do Dublin justice, this is a small selection of highlights, there’s much, much more to see in the city so, what are you waiting for!

What’s on this week?